Saturday, December 10, 2011

Labé


Labé is the second-largest city in Guinea (60,000+ inhabitants), the capital of the Fouta, a veritable metropolis compared to the villages and towns that dot my map. I always arrive from the east, just before dusk, covered in dust. One of the corporals at the checkpoint knows me, and so never lets me pass without first chatting for a bit. On days he isn’t there, just remember: greet people with guns, the bigger the gun, the bigger the greeting.

Just like any other big city, the roads are worse within the municipality than outside it. Heavy truck and motorcycle traffic chokes the narrow bridges, alleys, and everyone’s lungs. Trucks that aren’t going somewhere with a full load of things and extra people on top are parked along the sides of the road, receiving long-neglected and now critical repairs. Dogs and sheep lay in their shade.

Unlike towns en brousse, buildings in Labé have signs, lightbulbs (not illuminated, of course), and customers. Unlike in the village, bottled water, onions, and diesel are cheaper, and taxi rides and plates of rice and sauce are more expensive. There are more choices, more refrigerators, more foreigners (few compared to none), more schoolchildren, and more metalworkers’ shops. You need to watch where you’re going.

The most striking aspect of Labé is the people. Because the Peuls of the Fouta are part of the much larger Fula group, and because it is a commercial and administrative center, there are more different looking people here than anywhere except Conakry.

Light and dark skin, all sorts of facial features in all combinations, all heights, and every possible definition of clothing are well represented. Students wear uniforms: red, blue or green gingham for primary school, khaki for middle school, and white on top with blue or green bottoms for high school. Hair and shoes: anything goes, and does. Wigs are more common than long colorful extensions woven into the braids, and dreadlocks are discouraged. Workers wear dirty jumpsuits, businessmen wear suit jackets or colorful, krinkly boubous, and young men wear impossibly bright and clean button-downs with a heavy coat of perfume. What women do can be inferred from their attire as well: Market ladies wear a simple complet of colorful fabric (or a an old tshirt supporting a forgotten candidate and a wrap skirt, if they sell fish or peanut butter), alarmingly young mothers wear tight dresses and babies, linked by a tight towel, and wealthy women wear expensive looking cheap jeans and glittery tops, or complicated layers of imported Malian fabric. Children wear what’s left: tattered shorts, sports jerseys, and snowsuits.

The combination of massive market, towering (relatively) but crumbling administrative buildings, and just-installed power poles (the future cabling lying on the ground between in tangles or spools) gives Labé the feeling of a real place to live; where things are often changing, but nothing ever really becomes different. The same potholes are there, along with new ones, the same broken trucks are being hammered upon, along with older ones, the same sandals are being sold by a different vendor, four doors down, and the bread is always just beyond fresh.

I like Labé. 

Thursday, November 24, 2011

Choose Your Own Adventure: Weekly Market Madness!


You know the drill: Read the paragraph, then choose one of the options that follow. Try not to read the intervening paragraphs.

Line 1
It’s Thursday, which means the weekly market is happening in the neighboring village. You need supplies, better go!
-If you walk the 5km, go to line 3
-If you ride your bike, go to line 2
-If you’re tired and feeling wealthy, and take the minibus for 3000 GNF, go to line 4

Friday, October 28, 2011

Maison II

A brief video tour of my dwelling. Questions? Comment!



Sagesse

Powdered milk (dry) is a little bit like parmesan cheese.

Students listen better when something is on fire.

Air doesn’t weigh much (1.2 grams per liter under “normal conditions”).

“Cheval” tea is better than “El-Hella” tea (unfortunately).

Strips of inner tube are way better than bungee cords.

To get a cow to move out of the way, yell, honk, or wave your arms. Just kidding, you have to go around.

Bread with margarine, sugar, nutmeg, and cinnamon makes a pretty decent pseudo-cinnamon roll.

Students should be at school for the 7:45 flag-raising ceremony, so they arrive at 8:15, and the 8:00 class starts a bit late. Always.

Margarine is still not butter.

Not all okra have 7 sides.

The best time to look at your toes is when you are on the toilet.

Light at night in a town with no electricity comes from everywhere: stars, candles, lightning, fireflies, flashlights, motorcycle headlights.

Bean soup is easy to make and really good: Sauté onion, garlic, bay, thyme, coriander, cumin, a pinch of anise, and dried chilies together, add a half kilo of soaked beans, a couple of chopped potatoes, chunked squash, a bouillon cube, a can of tomato paste, a couple tomatoes and/or okra cut up, and then add pepper, cinnamon, paprika, salt, and plenty of water. Eat with deep-fried cornmeal donuts and a smile.

Never throw away a resealable container.

Any decent classroom should be able to be completely blacked out (no light enters).

Photos 1


Some pictures and a video, in rough chronological order (Poor quality phone takes poor quality pictures.)



One third of my host family in Dubreka: Baby Bah, Majou, and their dad, Mamadou Cissé.


Sunset in September




America is everywhere



The Ousmane Sow and Ibrahima Dieng, the best Peace Corps Regional Driver and Regional Coordinator! (Just after unloading all my gear from the car at my new house)


A tree frog on my window grating


Tostan, a regional NGO



Looking down into my site from a hillside above



Ants cross a road (video)

Tuesday, October 11, 2011

Termitier


Termites in this region of Africa build very unique structures. Their homes are shaped like mushrooms, with stalks up to a foot high, and wide, overhanging caps. A whole field can be dotted with these mycological lodgings. After rain the caps moisten and darken, while the stalks remain dry, further perpetuating the mushroom metaphor.

The termite mushrooms (mound does not seem an appropriate term) are constructed from dirt, sand, and saliva. Most seem to be unoccupied. I guess termites are like people: their environmental changes outlast their own lifetimes. Locals say it is bad luck to destroy the structures, and the cows and sheep seem to eat around them, so they stand proud.



Friday, September 2, 2011

Ecole Practique

Practice school is the best training that future Peace Corps Guinea teachers receive. They are in real Guinean classrooms, (half-)filled with Guinean students, writing in mostly real French, on really terrible chalkboards.

Classes begin at 8 am sharp. Students arrive between 7:50 and 8:10. There is a flag-raising ceremony, and the Guinean tricolor is hoisted up the rather unimposing pole. The principal explains again that all students are to arrive on time and refrain from mocking our accents or brandishing their cellphones. Classes begin at 8:10 or so.

I start by telling the students to sit down, as they have gotten to their feet as I crossed the threshold. I say good day, and write the date in the upper left corner of the board; day, month spelled out, and year. I have been commended in evaluations for my directed inclusion of the date. Then I divide the long rectangular chalkboard into four relatively equal portions. Guineans like structure. I write the name of the current lesson at the top, and begin.

Students sit two or three to a desk; a one-piece wood construct sort of like a church pew with a writing surface, only smaller. They take notes in pen in a cahier, a small staple-bound notebook with gridded paper and the latest pop diva or soccer star on the cover. Any and all lines must be drawn with a ruler. No problem if they don’t have one, they can borrow their neighbors’. However, when there are only 12 rulers in a class of 35, the going is slow.

Seventh graders are learning first about the states of matter. Limes are good surrogates for molecules; hold a handful tightly to indicate their arrangement in a solid, palm a couple and roll them about to show liquid behavior, and throw them around the room for a gas. They seem to understand, but the real test will be on Friday.

Tenth graders are learning about convergent lenses. Luckily, I have a medium-sized lens scavenged from an old magnifying glass. If all goes well tomorrow, we’ll light some paper on fire and talk about focal lengths. We’ll also try to flip the image of a candle over, and explain what’s happening. Unluckily, explaining the physics of light and lenses requires significant elaboration of several abstract points: two focal points, distances, a similar triangles theorem, and some not-as-straightforward-as-expected fractions. How do you explain how to divide one by one third? Remember that decimal points and commas are switched in the French system.

By the time I’m done teaching the sun is high, although the air is more humid than hot. Back at the office I plan for the next day’s lessons and reflect one what went well. Then chat for a bit the other teachers, maybe walk the six blocks to the market and get a bean sandwich or try and find someone selling mangoes. The afternoon passes slower, our shirts slowly but surely dampening as we learn Pular grammar. Apparently, there are 24 ways to say “the”.